Jane Stanford, lady with a legacy that endures
I recently came across an article that offered an interesting perspective, if not for the tragic and untimely death of Leland Stanford Jr. at the age of 15 from typhoid fever, Silicon Valley as we know it might never have existed. In memory of their only son, Leland and Jane Stanford founded Stanford University in 1885 with the mission “to promote the public welfare by exercising an influence on behalf of humanity and civilization.” Nearly 140 years later, that vision continues to resonate. Stanford has grown into a global epicenter of innovation, particularly in science and technology, profoundly shaping the modern world.
Fig 1 - Mosaic image of Jane Stanford
Just a few days ago, I had the privilege of joining a small group invited to view newly acquired pieces from the Cantor Arts Center’s collection. Among the highlights was a remarkable historical treasure: a coat that once belonged to Jane Stanford, part of the museum’s collection since her passing in 1905.
Seeing it in person was deeply moving. The coat is a dolman-style winter garment from 1890, designed by the celebrated French couturier Emile Pingat. Made from linen, lace, and velvet, it embodies the elegance and craftsmanship of late 19th-century Parisian fashion.
Fig 2 - Coat details
Its color — a deep, regal violet long associated with royalty — is richly adorned with intricate gold and silver paisley embroidery. Along the hem, delicate ivory lace peeks out beneath violet silk tassels that echo the rich tones of the velvet. Inside, a heavy thermal lining suggests both luxury and practicality. According to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Pingat was considered one of the top three designers in Paris during his time, known for drawing inspiration from diverse cultures and creating garments that were distinctive and in high demand.
As one would expect from such a renowned atelier, the quality of the fabric and the intricacy of the workmanship are breathtaking, Remarkably, the violet hues remain vibrant — a testament to the skill of the Cantor’s conservators — though the fabric is beginning to show signs of age, with slight fraying around the shoulders.
As I observed the coat up close, I was transported to the 1890s. I could almost imagine Jane Stanford entering a grand room by the warm glow of gaslight, the velvet catching and reflecting the flickering light, the tassels swaying softly as she moved, and the ivory lace providing a striking contrast against her skin. It was unmistakably a statement piece.
Fig- Viewing the coat in its conservation storage box
To stand before an article of clothing once worn by a woman whose vision and contributions continue to shape the lives of millions was like reaching through time. The entrepreneurial spirit, ambition, and drive that define Silicon Valley today does have its roots in Jane Stanford’s enduring legacy — and in that moment, this coat became a tangible, powerful symbol of this connection.